BLGFLTA -Famous Derbyshire -Peak District National Park Landmarks

Photo 1 - Liggate


Walk in Hope Valley

The view from Liggate in Hope Valley offers stunning panoramic vistas of the surrounding Peak District landscape.The path to Liggate, located on the Great Ridge near Mam Tor, provides walkers with expansive views of Castleton and the valley below.It's a popular spot for taking in the scenery, especially during sunsets, as the hills and valleys are bathed in golden light.

Here's a more detailed look:

  • Location:
    Liggate is situated on the Great Ridge, a prominent feature of the Peak District known for its dramatic views.

  • Views:
    From Liggate, you can see Castleton, the villages of Calver and Curbar, and the surrounding Hope Valley.

  • Accessibility:
    The path to Liggate is relatively easy to follow, making it a good option for walkers of all abilities.

  • Popularity:
    Liggate is a well-known viewpoint, attracting visitors who come to admire the breathtaking scenery and enjoy the fresh air.

  • Nearby Attractions:
    The area is rich in attractions, including Peveril Castle, Castleton village, and the caves of Winnats Pass.




Photo 2 - Peak Cavern and Peveril Castle

Peveril Castle(alsoCastleton CastleorPeak Castle)[3]is a ruined 11th-century castle overlooking the village ofCastletonin the English county ofDerbyshire. It was the main settlement (orcaput) of thefeudal baronyofWilliam Peverel, known as theHonour of Peverel,[4]and was founded some time between theNorman Conquestof 1066 and its first recorded mention in theDomesday Surveyof 1086, by Peverel, who held lands inNottinghamshireand Derbyshire as atenant-in-chiefof the king. The town became the economic centre of the barony. The castle has views across theHope ValleyandCave Dale.

William Peveril the Youngerinherited his father's estates, but in 1155 they were confiscated by KingHenry II. While in royal possession, Henry visited the castle in 1157, 1158, and 1164, the first time hosting KingMalcolm IV of Scotland. During theRevolt of 1173–1174, the castle's garrison was increased from a porter and two watchmen to a force led by twentyknightsshared with the castles ofBolsoverandNottingham. TheEarls of Derbyhad a claim to the Peveril family's estates through marriage, and in 1199William de Ferrers, the fourth earl, paid 2,000marksfor the Peak lordship, although the castle remained under royal control. The closest Peveril Castle came to seeing battle was in 1216, when King John gave the castle to William de Ferrers, but thecastellanrefused to relinquish control. Although they were both John's supporters, the king authorised the earl to use force to evict the castellan, who eventually capitulated, although there is no evidence that the castle was assaulted.

In 1223 the castle returned to the Crown. In the 13th century there were periods of building work at the castle, and by 1300 its final form had been established. Toward the end of the 14th century, the barony was granted toJohn of Gaunt,Duke of Lancaster. Having little use for the castle, he ordered some of its material to be stripped out for re-use, marking the beginning of its decline. From the time of John of Gaunt to the present day, the castle has been owned and administered by theDuchy of Lancaster. Peveril Castle became less important administratively, and by 1609 it was "very ruinous and serveth for no use".[5]In the 19th century, SirWalter Scottfeatured the castle in his novelPeveril of the Peak. The site is situated in anational park, and cared for byEnglish Heritage. Peveril Castle is protected as ascheduled monument[2]and aGrade I listed building.[1]

Peveril Castle stands on a limestone outcrop overlooking the west end ofHope Valley, in the midst of an ancient landscape. Overlooking the head of the valley, 2 km to the west, isMam Tor, aBronze Agehill fort, and 2 miles (3 km) to the east atBrough-on-Noeis theRoman fortof Navio. The valley formed a natural line of communication and had extra importance due to valuable mineral resources in the area, particularly lead.[6]

From the Norman Conquest[edit]

The smallHope Castlelay halfway along the valley.[7]The castle's founder,William Peveril, was a follower ofWilliam the Conquerorand was rewarded for supporting him during theNorman Conquest. The first mention of him in England records that in 1068 he was granted the newcastle at Nottinghamby William the Conqueror, who was in the process of subduing the Midlands and northern England. An unsubstantiated legend states that Peveril was William's illegitimate son.[8]By theDomesday Bookof 1086, Peveril had become a powerful landowner, with holdings in Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire.[8]The exact year he founded the castle is uncertain, although it must have been started by 1086 as it is recorded in the Domesday Book,[8]one of 48 castles mentioned in the survey and the only one in Derbyshire.[9]The castle was recorded as standing atPecheserswhich has been translated as both "Peak's Tail" and "Peak's Arse".[8][10]Although the earliest Norman castles were usually built in timber, Peveril Castle seems to have been designed from outset to be built in stone.[8]

Peveril Castle's keep dates from around the 12th century.

William Peveril had custody of royal lands such as the district ofHope, and although he had his own estates, he relied on continued royal favour to maintain power in this way. In 1100 the new king,Henry I, granted William "hisdemesnein the Peak". Thus the Peak became an independent lordship under William Peveril's control, and the castle became an important centre of administration for the area, allowing the collection of taxes. Castleton benefited from the castle's new status and began to grow as the lordship's economic heart.[11]William Peveril died in 1114 and was succeeded by his son,William Peveril the Younger. In the civil war known asThe Anarchybetween KingStephenand theEmpress Matilda, Peveril backed the losing side and his fortunes suffered after his capture at theBattle of Lincolnin 1141. In 1153 Peveril was suspected of attempting to poisonRanulf de Gernon, 4th Earl of Chester. In 1153 the future KingHenry IIaccused Peveril of "plundering and treachery" and threatened to confiscate his estates and hand them over to the Earl of Chester.[12]Two years later Henry, now king, followed through his threat. The Earl of Chester was dead by this time, and the king kept the property for himself.[12]Once under royal control, Peveril became the administrative centre of theForest of High Peak.[13]

William Peveril the Younger died in 1155, and as his only male heir had predeceased him, the family's claim on the confiscated estates was taken up by the husband of William's daughter,Margaret Peveril. Margaret had marriedRobert de Ferrers, 2nd Earl of Derby.[12]King Henry II visited Peveril Castle three times during his reign. During the first visit, in 1157, he hosted KingMalcolm IV of Scotland[14]who paid homage to Henry after cedingCumberlandandWestmorlandto the English king.[15]Henry II visited again in 1158 and 1164. When a group of barons led by Henry's sonsHenry the Young King,Geoffrey, Duke of Brittany, and PrinceRichard, later Richard the Lionheart, took part in theRevolt of 1173–1174against the king's rule, the king spent £116 on building work at Peveril andBolsover Castlesin Derbyshire. The garrison was also increased. Previously Peveril was guarded by two watchmen and a porter, but this was expanded to a force led by 20 knights shared with Bolsover and Nottingham castles during the revolt. After the revolt ended in 1174, further steps were taken to improve Peveril Castle, and thePipe Rolls(records of royal expenditure) show that between 1175 and 1177 £184 was spent on building the keep.[14]Building in stone was expensive, and though Peveril's keep was small, moderately-sized stone castles such as the contemporaryOrfordcould cost thousands of pounds.[16]Henry II's average income during his reign has been estimated to be around £10,000 per year.[17]As few documents have survived, it is uncertain when parts of the castle were built, and archaeological investigations have been unsuccessful in dating the stonework.[11]Henry II died in 1189 and was succeeded by his son, Richard the Lionheart. Soon after his coronation, Richard granted the lordship of the Peak, including the castle, to his brotherJohn. While Richard was on crusade, John rebelled and on his return Richard confiscated the lordship.[18]

Key made of copper alloy, found at Peveril Castle

John became king in 1199 after Richard's death.William de Ferrers, 4th Earl of Derbymaintained the claim of the Earls of Derby to the Peveril estates. He paid King John 2000 marks(£1333) for the lordship of the Peak, but the Crown retained possession of Peveril and Bolsover Castles. John finally gave Ferrers these castles in 1216 to secure his support in the face of country-wide rebellion. However, the castellanBrian de Lislerefused to hand them over. Although de Lisle and Ferrers were both King John's supporters, the king gave Ferrers permission to use force to retake the castles.

Henry III[edit]

The situation was still chaotic when KingHenry IIIbecame king after his father's death in 1216. Although Bolsover fell to Ferrers' forces in 1217 after a siege, there is no indication that Peveril was assaulted, and it is likely that Brian de Lisle negotiated his surrender. Ferrers only had possession of the lordship until King Henry III came of age. When the time came he was reluctant to hand over the property, and after an initial deadlock the Crown took control in 1223. Although contemporary Pipe Roll records of expenditure at Peveril survive, they do not specify how the money was spent. As a result, it is unclear what constitutes maintenance and what marks substantial construction work; however, Richard Eales, who wrote the 2006English Heritageguidebook, suggests that there were two periods of building, when sums spent were larger than usual: £54 in 1204–1207 and £67 in 1210–1212.[18]The medieval historianSidney Painterestimated that in about 1200 there were only seven magnates in England whose annual income exceeded £400 and a knight could easily live on £10 to £20 per year.[19]

Map of the area fromThe Growth of the English HousebyJohn Alfred Gotch, 1909

The rest of the 13th century was relatively peaceful, and records show that Peveril Castle was maintained by the Crown. In 1235, in preparation for the king's visit, the north wall and bridge were repaired. After significant work in 1250–52 (£60 spent), 1272–1275 (£40) and 1288–1290 (£151), it is likely that the castle buildings were complete by 1300.[20]King Henry gave Prince Edward (later KingEdward I) Peveril Castle along with theCounty PalatineofChesterwith the royal holdings in Wales and Ireland. Some of the lands, including Peveril, were made part ofEleanor of Castile'sdower, to come into her possession should her husband, Prince Edward, die. At this time, the Peak lordship was worth around £300 a year. At the outbreak of theSecond Barons' Warin 1264, Peveril Castle was occupied byRobert de Ferrers, 6th Earl of Derby.Simon de Montfortpressured King Henry III into giving him Peveril, although it was recovered by the Crown after De Montfort's death in 1265. The castle was returned to Eleanor's dower, and as she predeceased her husband the lordship returned into royal hands.[21]Its income was used to provide for members of the royal family such as KingEdward II'squeen,Isabella of France, and their children, and royal favourites such asPiers Gaveston. In 1331Edward IIIgave the lordship to his wife,Philippa of Hainault. It was given toJohn de Warenne, 7th Earl of Surrey, in 1345. After its return to the Crown, the estate was given toJohn of Gaunt, Edward III's third surviving son, partially in exchange for theEarldom of Richmond.[22]

The Lancastrians[edit]

John of Gaunt's ownership marked the start of Peveril Castle's decline. He was the richest nobleman in England and held several castles. As Peveril Castle was relatively unimportant, John decided not to maintain it and in 1374 gave orders to strip the lead from the buildings for re-use atPontefract Castle. It was inherited by his sonHenry Bolingbroke, later King Henry IV, and remained under royal control, administered by theDuchy of Lancaster.[23]During the 15th century, Peveril became less important as administrative functions were moved elsewhere. Although other castles administered by the Duchy of Lancaster were repaired in 1480, there is no indication that this happened at Peveril.[5]A survey conducted for the Duchy in 1561 revealed that Peveril was in a state of decay, and as a result, along withDonnington, was one of two castles that were subsequently abandoned.[24]The castle however hosted local courts until 1600. A survey in 1609 found that Peveril was "very ruinous and serveth for no use".[5]At some point in the post-medieval period the keep's facing stone was removed from three sides. The steep slope prevented the removal of the stone from the fourth side.[25]At one point, the castle was used to house animals.

Modern era[edit]

With the advent of the railways in the 19th century, the area became a tourist attraction. The Duchy of Lancaster undertook maintenance in the 19th century to ensure the castle's condition did not deteriorate further, mostly by clearing rubble and adding mortar.[26]SirWalter Scott's 1823 novelPeveril of the Peak, set in the mid 17th century, described the castle ruins.[27][28]

In 1932 the Duchy gave custody of the castle to theOffice of Works, while retaining ownership. The site is today cared for by English Heritage, the successor to the Office of Works. The surrounding landscape has been protected as anational parksince 1951.[26]The castle is ascheduled monument,[27]which means it is a "nationally important" historic building andarchaeological sitewhich has been given protection against unauthorised change.[29]It is also aGrade I listed building(first listed in 1985),[1]and recognised as an internationally important structure.[30]It has been described as "perhaps the finest medieval landmark of the Peak District",[31]and architectural historianNikolaus Pevsnerremarked that it is "By far the most important castle in the county – in fact the only one of importance".[32]BeforeDuffield Castlein the south of the county wasdestroyedin 1266 it had one of the largestkeepsin England, though only the foundations survive.[33]

Film of Peveril Castle in 1945 is held by theCinema Museumin London. Ref HM0365.[34]



Peveril Castle above Castleton

Layout[edit]



A plan of Peveril Castle(left)and a museum reconstruction(right).

Peveril Castle in Castleton is roughly triangular in shape, about 90 by 65 m (295 by 213 ft),[35]on top of a hill overlooking the Hope Valley. The land slopes steeply away from the castle's perimeter, forming an almost sheer face to the south east, and the winding approach from the north is the most practical way to the castle. Not only was the site naturally defensible, but its prominence would have allowed the castle to be a highly visible symbol of the builder's power. The town of Castleton provided supplies to the castle.[36]It commands views of Hope Valley below and Treak Cliff, Mam Tor, Black Tor, andLose Hill.[37]The castle was entered through thegatehouseto the east. Its design was simple, 7 m (23 ft) wide with a passage 2.5 m (8 ft 2 in) across. Little survives, although earlier drawings contain details of mouldings that suggest the structure was built in the 12th century, perhaps by Henry II or King John.[38]

Thecurtain wallsenclosing the castle show the multiple phases of construction at Peveril, with stonework from the Norman period – differentiated by the use ofopus spicatum– to modern repairs.[38]The walls were surmounted by walkways, which next to the gatehouse would have stood about 5 m (16 ft) above the ground level immediately outside the castle. In the 12th century, a tower projecting less than 2 m (6 ft 7 in) was added to the north wall. In Eales' opinion, it "would have been of limited military value, compared with the boldly projecting towers of later castles"[37]which allowed defenders to deploy flanking fire along the base of the walls.[39]The land within the castle slopes downwards from west to east.[40]Water storage would have been a concern for the garrison of the castle, but how they procured water is uncertain.[41]


Part of the interior of Peveril's keep


Thegarderobein the south-east face of the keep

The southern curtain wall is a modern replacement along the line of the medieval wall. There are the remains of two round or semi-circular towers projecting from the wall. Enough of one tower survives that one can see the use of Roman tiles in the construction, probably from the fort of Navio 2 mi (3 km) away. It is uncertain when these towers were built, although it is thought they may date from the 13th century.[41]Foundations mark the position of buildings abutting the south wall, probably the old hall and a chapel. A document from 1246 recorded a chapel at the castle; the remains of the easternmost building against the south wall are assumed to mark the site of the chapel, as they are oriented roughly east–west.[42]Foundations at the west end of the north wall mark a large building: probably a hall where the lord of the castle would have eaten and entertained high-status guests. It is unclear when the new hall was built, probably replacing the old hall in the south of the castle, although an "old hall" was mentioned in a document of 1251, implying there was also a new hall by that time. The kitchen and food stores would have stood at the east end of the hall, although little remains of those structures.[43]Buildings were also constructed against the west curtain wall, probably high-status apartments. Although the main approach to Peveril Castle was from the north, there was also a gate in the west, reached via a bridge spanning the gorge and linking the castle with an enclosure on the other side. As it has not been excavated, the exact form the enclosure took is uncertain. Its purpose is also a matter of speculation, whether it was an elaborate outer bailey for defence or used for storage and stabling.[44]

The keep occupies the southern corner of Peveril Castle.[45]Construction probably began in around 1176, instigated by Henry II.[32]Its plan is square, measuring less than 12 by 12 m (39 by 39 ft), and the parapet is 15 m (49 ft) above the keep's base; as the ground is uneven, on the other side it rises 10.5 m (34 ft) above ground level. It is smaller than contemporary royal keeps such as those atDoverandScarboroughCastles. Today the exterior is coarse, but originally the facing would have been smooth; the south-east side, where the steep natural slope prevented removal of the facing stone, gives an idea of how it may once have appeared. A projection in the south-east face of the keep housed agarderobe. As was usual with Norman keeps, Peveril's was entered through the first floor and was accessed by a staircase. This entrance level would have been a large public room and the basement used for storage. A narrow staircase in the east corner allowed access to the basement and the wall walk around the top of the keep.[45]














Photo 2 Continued

ThePeak Cavern, also known as theDevil's Arse,[1][2]is one of the fourshow cavesinCastleton, Derbyshire, England.Peakshole Waterflows through and out of the cave, which has the largest cave entrance in Britain.

Unlike the other show caves in the area, Peak Cavern is almost entirely natural; the only artificial part of the cave was blasted to bypass a low tunnel that was only accessible by lying down on a boat. The cave system is the largest in thePeak District, and the main entrance is the largest cave entrance in Britain. Until 1915, the cave was home to some of Britain's last[note 1]troglodytes, who lived in houses built inside the cave mouth and made a living from rope making, while the depths of the cave were known as a haven for bandits.[citation needed]In legend, it was wherethieves' cantwas created by a meeting betweenCock Lorel, leader of therogues, andGiles Hather, theKing of the Gypsies.[3]

Several passages lead from the entrance, known as "The Vestibule". The only one open to the public is "LumbagoWalk", named as traversing it requires most adults to stoop. The route continues through two main caverns, "The Great Cave" and "Roger Rain's House", and into a passage, "Pluto's Dining Room" – This is now the furthest point currently open to the public, but before 1990 the show cave extended almost twice its current length; down "The Devil's Staircase" to "Halfway House" along a raised bank path which crossed anunderground streamknown as "Inner Styx" via a series of four wooden bridges, under "Five Arches" to the junction of Buxton Water Sump. This section often floods in winter, and occasionally summer, which required regular clearing of debris and mending of the safety fences at the start of the tourist season in April (cave tours were not an all-year event until 1997). In the mid-1980s, there was a worldwide scare over the possible dangers ofradon, a gas found to be present in this lower part of the cave and a potential issue for tour guides frequently exposed to it. This, along with the maintenance required, led to the Five Arches part of the tour being closed to the public in 1989, the same year that the BBC filmedThe Chronicles of Narniaat this location. It can, however, still be accessed by cavers, and a ventilation system here expels cave air to surface atCave Dale.[4][5][6]There have since been efforts to return this area of cave to a more natural state by erasing the history of its show-cave past, removing the wooden bridges which had served generations of paying visitors.[7]

From Five Arches, several routes are open to cavers. The main path, to the right, leads beneath "VictoriaAven", a sizeable naturalshaftapproximately 100 metres (300 ft) high, and on to "FarSump", through which lies the Far Sump Extension. This area was first explored in 1980, but difficult access limited discoveries until routes through fromSpeedwell CavernandJames Hall's Over Engine Minewere opened in 1996.[5]This permitted further exploration, and in 1999Titan Shaftwas discovered, at 141.5 metres (464 ft) the deepestpitchin Britain.


Historically the cave was known as the Devil's Arse, under which name it is described inWilliam Camden'sBritanniaof 1586:

...there is a cave or hole within the ground called, saving your reverence, The Devils Arse, that gapeth with a wide mouth and hath in it many turnings and retyring roomes, wherein, for sooth,Gervase of Tilbury, whether for want of knowing the truth, or upon a delight hee had in fabling, hath written that a Shepheard saw a verie wide and large Country with riverets and brookes running here and there through it, and huge pooles of dead and standing waters. Notwithstanding, by reason of these and such like fables, this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England...[8]

The cavern was declared to be one of theSeven Wonders of the Peakby philosopherThomas Hobbesin his 1636 bookDe Mirabilibus Pecci: Being The Wonders of the Peak in Darby-shire, Commonly called The Devil's Arse of Peak.[9]

Daniel Defoeuses the same name in hisA tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain(1724–26):

...the so famed wonder call'd, saving our good manners, The Devil's A—e in the Peak'.[10]

and also mentions the shepherd story recorded by Gervase of Tilbury.

The name of the cave was thought to have been changed to "Peak Cavern" in order not to cause offence toQueen Victoriaduring an 1842 visit, but the Queen herself later asserted that she had never visited the cavern.[11]More recently the cave has been promoted using its older, more vulgar name.[1]The name may have arisen because of theflatulent-sounding noises from inside the cave when flood water is draining away.[citation needed]

Events[edit]

The cavern has hosted concerts byJarvis Cocker,Richard HawleyandThe Vaccines. In 2013 the operators began promoting more concerts and events as a way to secure new streams of income. It was transformed into a cinema duringSheffield Doc/Festin 2013 for a screening ofThe Summit[12]attended by 500 people.[13]The success of this event led to screenings every night during Doc/Fest 2014, includingHappinessandCave of Forgotten Dreams.[14][15]

In May 2022,John Shuttleworthhad to abandon a performance in the Peak Cavern, Derbyshire, due to fears of rocks falling down the cliff face. An operation by theEdale Mountain Rescueensued to reach a walker who had fallen down the side of the cavern and was clinging to a tree above a 100 ft (30 m) drop.[16]

Photo 5 - Win Hill

Win Hill is a hill north west of Bamford in the Derbyshire Peak District of England. Its summit is 462 m above sea level and it is bounded by the River Derwent to the east, the River Noe to the south west and Ladybower Reservoir to the north, with a ridge running north west linking it to Kinder Scout.

Win Hillis ahillnorth west ofBamfordin theDerbyshirePeak Districtof England. Its summit is 462 m (1,516 ft) above sea level and it is bounded by theRiver Derwentto the east, theRiver Noeto the south west andLadybower Reservoirto the north, with a ridge running north west linking it toKinder Scout. TheRoman roadfrom Glossop over the Snake Pass crosses the ridge to the north and descends to Hope and the old Roman base of Brough in the Hope Valley, with theHope Cross, amarker postdating from 1737, at the highest point of the road.

On top of Win Hill lies Win Hill Pike, locally known as the Pimple. Win Hill Pike has anOrdnance Surveytriangulation point, ortrig point. Sometimes misnamed the Old Witches Knoll, Win Hill Pike is often used for aDuke of Edinburgh Awardstation.

Win Hill is commonly ascended from Yorkshire Bridge orHope. The ascent from Yorkshire Bridge is a steep climb of 300 metres (980 ft) in1.2 km (3⁄4mi) by Parkin Clough, first through woods then over the moor to the top. Routes from Hope are gentler, either via Twitchill Farm or the villages of Aston and Thornhill. Depending on direction of travel, Win Hill is either the first or last hill on the Derwent Watershed and Edale Horseshoe challenge walks.

With around 144 m (472 ft) ofrelative height, Win Hill is only a few metres short of qualifying as aMarilyn.

The approach to Win Hill Pike

The hill's counterpart,Lose Hill, lies to the west on the opposite side of the River Noe. In relatively recent times, the two hills' names have prompted a fanciful tale concerning the outcome of an imagined 7th-century battle between the forces ofEdwin of NorthumbriaandCynegilsof Wessex.[1]Edwin's forces occupied Win Hill, while Cynegils' men camped on Lose Hill. As the battle progressed, Cynegils' forces advanced up Win Hill, and Edwin's retreated behind a temporary wall they had built near the summit. They pushed the boulders of the wall downhill, crushing the Wessex soldiers and gaining victory in the battle. However, there is no historical basis for the tale, and no evidence of any battle ever being fought here. A more prosaic explanation for the name is that Win Hill was originally recorded asWythinehull, meaning "Withy Hill" or "Willow Hill". Fragments of willow can still be found in the otherwise largely coniferous plantation on the approach from Yorkshire Bridge.[2]









Photo 3 is Mam Tor

Mam Tor is a 517 m (1,696 ft) hill nearCastletonin theHigh PeakofDerbyshire, England. Its name means "mother hill",[1]so called because frequentlandslipson its eastern face have resulted in a multitude of "mini-hills" beneath it.[2]These landslips, which are caused by unstable lower layers ofshale, also give the hill its alternative name of Shivering Mountain.[3]

In 1979, the continual battle to maintain theA625 road(SheffieldtoChapel en le Frith) on the crumbling eastern side of the hill was lost when the road officially closed as a through-route, with the Fox House to Castleton section of the road being re-designated as theA6187.

The hill is crowned by a lateBronze Ageand earlyIron Ageunivallate hill fort, and two Bronze Agebowl barrows.[4]At the base of the Tor and nearby are four show caves:Blue John Cavern,Speedwell Cavern,Peak CavernandTreak Cliff Cavernwherelead,Blue John,fluorsparand other minerals were once mined. Mam Tor was declared to be one of theSeven Wonders of the PeakbyThomas Hobbesin his 1636 bookDe Mirabilibus Pecci.[5]

Geography

Mam Tor is on the southern edge of theDark Peak(sandstones) and overlooks theWhite Peak(limestones), including the dry gorge ofWinnats Pass. It is a dominating link between the eastern end ofRushup Edgeand the western end of theGreat Ridge, which together separate theHope Valleyto the south fromEdaleto the north, and is a popular ridgewalk.

Mam Tor is made of rocks ofCarboniferousage, approximately 320 million years old. The base of Mam Tor is composed of blackshalesof theBowland Shale FormationofSerpukhovianage overlain byturbiditicsandstoneof the Mam Tor Sandstone Formation ofBashkirianage.[6]

A feature of Mam Tor is the activelandslidewhich invades its southeast side almost to the summit, and interrupts the ramparts of the hillfort, unless its builders used it as part of the defences. This rotational landslide began roughly 4,000 years ago. The toe is adebris flow. The landslide is due to weakshalesunderlyingsandstones, a common phenomenon all around the Dark Peak, notably atAlport Castles,Longdendale,GlossopandCanyards Hills, Sheffield. Indeed, three larger landslides occur on the north side of Mam Tor, one of them cutting the main ridge at Mam Nick which allows a minor road over into Edale; another creates the striking crag of Back Tor well seen from Mam Tor.[7]

Evidence for the continued movement of the slide mass is demonstrated graphically by the severe damage to the oldMam Tor roadthat traversed this flow. The road was built at the beginning of the 1800s and was subsequently relaid until local authorities closed it in 1979. Layers of tarmac and gravel are up to 2 metres (6 ft 7 in) thick in places, demonstrating the numerous efforts to keep the road open. A short tunnel could readily have been made avoiding the landslip zone, but the opportunity to exclude heavy business and lorry traffic from the middle of the National Park was preferred. A local diversion for light vehicles follows the limestone gorge of Winnats Pass. This is one of the most extreme cases of geological problems affecting main transport systems in Britain, comparable with the railway atDawlish.

Current mean annual movement is "up to 0.25 m; this increases greatly when winter rainfalls exceed thresholds of both 210 mm/month and 750 mm in the preceding six months".[8]The debris flow poses no threat to any inhabited buildings; however, small farm buildings lying in the flow's path may soon be overwhelmed assuming a flow rate similar to that of the present. The 2000 study suggests that deep drainage may be the most effective means of stabilising the flow, though this may not completely stop movement.

Thesummitof Mam Tor is encircled by a lateBronze Ageand earlyIron Ageunivallate hill fort.Radiocarbonanalysis suggests occupation from around 1200 BC. The earliest remaining features are two Bronze Age burial mounds, one just below the summit and the other on the summit itself, though now buried under the paving. At a later stage over a hundred small platforms were levelled into the hill near the summit, allowing inhabited timber huts to be constructed. The hill fort and burial mounds are aScheduled Ancient Monument


Photo 4 -Winnats Pass

Winnats Pass(orWinnats, as shown on someOrdnance Surveymaps) is ahill passandlimestonegorgein thePeak DistrictofDerbyshire, England. The name is a corruption of 'wind gates' due to the swirling winds through the pass. It lies west of the village ofCastleton, in theNational Trust'sHigh Peak Estateand theHigh Peakborough of Derbyshire. The road winds through a cleft, surrounded by high limestone ridges. At the foot of the pass is the entrance toSpeedwell Cavern, akarst caveaccessed through a flooded lead mine, and which is a popular tourist attraction.[1]

In the 1930s, Winnats Pass was the location used for annual access rallies in support of greater access to the moorlands or the Peak District, around the time of theMass Trespass of Kinder Scout. At their peak these were attended by up to 10,000 people.[2]

The permanent closure of the mainA625 roadatMam Torin 1979 due to subsidence has resulted in Winnats Pass being heavily used by road traffic. However, the narrowness of the road and its maximum gradient of over 28% has caused it to be closed to buses, coaches and vehicles over 7.5 tonnes (7.4 long tons; 8.3 short tons) in weight. The road regularly features in the Tour of the Peak cycle race each autumn.[3]

The gorge of Winnats Pass was once thought to have originated as a giant collapsedcavern;[4]however, this idea has since been superseded. Winnats Pass can be seen to cut steeply down throughLower Carboniferouslimestone rocks. These were formed approximately 340 million years ago as a reef fringing a shallow lagoon, with deeper water beyond. The presence of a small outcrop offossiliferous rock(known as 'beach beds') at the base of Winnats Pass, close to Speedwell Cavern, suggests that a contemporary underwater cleft or canyon once existed within the active reef which caused the build up of shelly andcrinoidalremains at its base. All these sediments were subsequently buried together underNamuriansandstones and shales in the subsequentUpper Carboniferousperiod. They were subsequently uplifted, but were only re-exposed byperiglacialerosion towards the end of thePleistocene. Melting water would have flowed along any lines of weakness within the reef limestone, such as those created by the presence of the original underwater cleft in the reef, carving out the gorge seen today.[5][6][7][8][9][10]

Hieracium navienseis a species ofhawkweedwhose only world location is found at Winnats Pass. It is a native perennial plant, first discovered growing on limestone outcrops in 1966.[11]According toThe Flora of Derbyshire, it has been refound there on a number of occasions since.

A local legend is that the pass is haunted by a young couple Alan and Clara who eloped in 1758, only to be robbed and murdered by miners as they headed through Winnats Pass, on their way toPeak ForestChapel. The miners hid their bodies in a mine shaft where they were discovered 10 years later


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